Academy F4U "Jolly Rogers"

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:46 pm

Hi guys so this will be my entry into this Sig

and whats in the box

looks a straight forward build so the weathering is where I'll go to town with some new techniques.

next post will be a bit of history on this amazing aircraft and some of the brave guys that flew her.

Joesdad · Post by **Joesdad** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 1:30 pm

You'll enjoy this kit I reckon Nige

RoscoRSA · Post by **RoscoRSA** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:48 pm

I saw Academy F4U and thought, well this build should be nice if it wasn't for the decals, then I saw Jolly Rogers and I almost cringed because you want those decals to be good. Upon finer reviewing it seems that the Decal sheet you have is not the run of the mill Academy Sheet but a Crossdelta sheet (never used them but quick google search showed that they are not half bad) so I am really hoping those decals cooperate with you.

Best of luck and cant wait to see this one come together.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:06 am

RoscoRSA wrote:I saw Academy F4U and thought, well this build should be nice if it wasn't for the decals, then I saw Jolly Rogers and I almost cringed because you want those decals to be good. Upon finer reviewing it seems that the Decal sheet you have is not the run of the mill Academy Sheet but a Crossdelta sheet (never used them but quick google search showed that they are not half bad) so I am really hoping those decals cooperate with you.

Best of luck and cant wait to see this one come together.

Cheers for the heads up on the decals i was going to get some replacements but i think I'll go with with these now.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:09 am

Just a bit of history on the Corsair for you to have a look at guys.

The Chance Vought F4U Corsair was an American fighter aircraft that saw service primarily in World War II and the Korean War. Demand for the aircraft soon overwhelmed Vought's manufacturing capability, resulting in production by Goodyear and Brewster: Goodyear-built Corsairs were designated FG and Brewster-built aircraft F3A. From the first prototype delivery to the U.S. Navy in 1940, to final delivery in 1953 to the French, 12,571 F4U Corsairs were manufactured by Vought, in 16 separate models, in the longest production run of any piston-engined fighter in U.S. history (1942–53).

The Corsair was designed as a carrier-based aircraft. However its difficult carrier landing performance rendered the Corsair unsuitable for Navy use until the carrier landing issues were overcome when used by the British Fleet Air Arm. The Corsair thus came to and retained prominence in its area of greatest deployment: land based use by the U.S. Marines. The role of the dominant U.S. carrier based fighter in the second part of the war was thus filled by the Grumman F6F Hellcat, powered by the same Double Wasp engine first flown on the Corsair's first prototype in 1940. The Corsair served to a lesser degree in the U.S. Navy. As well as the U.S. and British use the Corsair was also used by the Royal New Zealand Air Force, the French Navy Aéronavale and other, smaller, air forces until the 1960s. Some Japanese pilots regarded it as the most formidable American fighter of World War II, and the U.S. Navy counted an 11:1 kill ratio with the F4U Corsair.

After the carrier landing issues had been tackled it quickly became the most capable carrier-based fighter-bomber of World War II. The Corsair served almost exclusively as a fighter-bomber throughout the Korean War and during the French colonial wars in Indochina and Algeria.

Engine considerations
The F4U incorporated the largest engine available at the time: the 2,000 hp (1,500 kW) 18-cylinder Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp radial. To extract as much power as possible a relatively large Hamilton Standard Hydromatic three-blade propeller of 13 feet 4 inches (4.06 m) was used.

Technical Issues
In part because of its advances in technology and a top speed greater than existing Navy aircraft, numerous technical problems had to be solved before the Corsair would enter service. Carrier suitability was a major development issue, prompting changes to the main landing gear, tail wheel and tailhook. Early F4U-1s had difficulty recovering from developed spins, since the inverted gull wing's shape interfered with elevator authority. It was also found that the Corsair's starboard wing could stall and drop rapidly and without warning during slow carrier landings. In addition, if the throttle were suddenly advanced (for example, during an aborted landing) the port wing could stall and drop so quickly that the fighter could flip over with the rapid increase in power. These potentially lethal characteristics were later solved through the addition of a small, 6 in (150 mm)-long stall strip to the leading edge of the outer starboard wing, just inboard of the gun ports. This allowed the starboard wing to stall at the same time as the port.

An early F4U-1 showing the "birdcage" canopy with rearwards production cockpit location. Compare with the XF4U-1.
Other problems were encountered during early carrier trials. The combination of an aft cockpit and the Corsair's long nose made landings hazardous for newly trained pilots. During landing approaches it was found that oil from the hydraulic cowl flaps could spatter onto the windscreen, badly reducing visibility, and the undercarriage oleo struts had bad rebound characteristics on landing, allowing the aircraft to bounce out of control down the carrier deck. The first problem was solved by locking the top cowl flap down permanently, then replacing it with a fixed panel. The undercarriage bounce took more time to solve but eventually a "bleed valve" incorporated in the legs allowed the hydraulic pressure to be released gradually as the aircraft landed. The Corsair was not considered fit for carrier use until the wing stall problems and the deck bounce could be solved.

Meanwhile the more docile and simpler to build F6F Hellcat had begun entering service in its intended carrier based use. Compared to the Hellcat the Navy regarded the Corsair as fundamentally flawed for their requirements. While slower than the Corsair, the Hellcat was much preferred by the Navy since the Hellcat was much simpler to land on a carrier. The Hellcat's great success combined with the Corsair's carrier landing issues meant the Navy released the Corsair to the U.S. Marine Corps. With no requirement for carrier landings, the Marine Corps deployed the Corsair to widespread and devastating effect from land bases.

Corsair deployment aboard U.S. carriers was delayed until late 1944, by which time the carrier landing problems had been tackled by the British.

Design modifications
Production F4U-1s featured several major modifications compared with the XF4U-1. A change of armament to six wing-mounted .50 in (12.7 mm) M2 Browning machine guns (three in each outer wing panel) and their ammunition (400 rounds for the inner pair, 375 rounds for the outer) meant that the location of the wing fuel tanks had to be changed. In order to keep the fuel tank close to the center of gravity, the only available position was in the forward fuselage, ahead of the cockpit. Accordingly as a 237 gal (897 l) self-sealing fuel tank replaced the fuselage mounted armament, the cockpit had to be moved back by 32 in (810 mm) and the fuselage lengthened. In addition, 150 lb of armor plate was installed, along with a 1.5 in (38 mm) bullet-proof windscreen which was set internally, behind the curved Plexiglas windscreen. The canopy could be jettisoned in an emergency, and half-elliptical planform transparent panels, much like those of certain models of the Curtiss P-40, were inset into the sides of the fuselage's turtledeck structure behind the pilot's headrest, providing the pilot with a limited rear view over his shoulders. A rectangular Plexiglas panel was inset into the lower center section to allow the pilot to see directly beneath the aircraft and assist with deck landings. The engine used was the more powerful R-2800-8 (B series) Double Wasp which produced 2,000 hp (1,491 kW). On the wings the flaps were changed to a NACA slotted type and the ailerons were increased in span to increase the roll rate, with a consequent reduction in flap span. IFF transponder equipment was fitted in the rear fuselage. These changes increased the Corsair's weight by several hundred pounds.

F4U-1A
General characteristics

Crew: 1 pilot
Length: 33 ft 4 in (10.1 m)
Wingspan: 41 ft 0 in (12.5 m)
Height: 16 ft 1 in (4.90 m)
Wing area: 314 ft2 (29.17 m2)
Empty weight: 8,982 lb (4,073 kg)
Loaded weight: 11,432 lb (5,185 kg)
Powerplant: 1 × Pratt & Whitney R-2800-8 radial engine, 2,000 hp (1,491 kW)
Performance

Maximum speed: 417 mph (362 kn, 671 km/h)
Range: 1,015 mi (882 nmi (1,633 km))
Service ceiling: 36,900 ft (11,247 m)
Rate of climb: 2,890 ft/min (15.2 m/s)
Armament

Guns:
4 × 0.50 in (12.7 mm) AN/M2 Browning machine guns, 400 rounds per gun
2 × 0.50 in AN/M2 Browning machine guns, 375 rounds per gun
Rockets: 4 × 5 in (12.7 cm) High Velocity Aircraft Rockets and/or
Bombs: 2,000 pounds (910 kg)
F4U-4

AU-1 Corsair Standard Aircraft Characteristics
General characteristics

Crew: 1 pilot
Length: 33 ft 8 in (10.2 m)
Wingspan: 41 ft 0 in (12.5 m)
WS Folded: 17 ft 0.5 in (5.2 m)
Height: 14 ft 9 in (4.50 m)
Empty weight: 9,205 lb (4,174 kg)
Loaded weight: 12,405 lb (5,626 kg)
Powerplant: 1 × Pratt & Whitney R-2800-18W radial engine, 2,325 hp (1,710 kW)
Performance

Maximum speed: 453 mph (395 kn, 731 km/h)
Range: 897 mi (602 nmi (1,115 km))
Service ceiling: 41,500ft (12,649 m)
Rate of climb: 3,870ft/min (19.7 m/s)
Armament

Guns:
6 × 0.50 in (12.7 mm) AN/M2 Browning machine guns, 400 rounds per gun or
4 × 0.79 in (20 mm) M2 cannon
Rockets: 8 × 5 in (12.7 cm) high velocity aircraft rockets and/or
Bombs: 4,000 pounds (1,800 kg)

F-17 Jolly Rogers (1943-1959)

F4U-1As of VF-17.
The first incarnation of the Jolly Rogers was established on 1 January 1943 at NAS Norfolk, as VF-17. Initially based on the USS Bunker Hill (CV-17), the unit saw combat as a land-based squadron in the Solomon Islands in 1943-44, flying the F4U Corsair. The squadron was broken up in April 1944, but a new unit, with new personnel and aircraft, was formed with the same squadron designation. This new VF-17 served aboard the USS Hornet (CV-12), and flew the F6F Hellcat in the final drive across the Pacific in 1945.

The iconic squadron insignia of VF-17, which had a stark white skull and crossbones emblazoned over a sinister black flag, was born from the desire of VF-17 squadron commander Lt. Cdr Tom Blackburn to have an insignia that had a piratical theme to it to match the F4U's designation which was "Corsair"

The first VF-17 had 11 aces and was credited with 152 victories; the second had 12 aces and 161 victories. Together VF-17 was the highest-scoring Navy squadron of World War II. In their five months of action in the Solomons, the Jolly Rogers shot down 8 Japanese planes for every Corsair lost. They flew 8,577 combat hours, destroyed 156 planes and 5 ships for a loss of 12 pilots. The squadron had 12 aces, more than any other naval unit. As the tide of the war in the Pacific turned, VF-17 was there.

VF-17 was redesignated as VF-5B in 1946, and as VF-61 in 1948. It was disestablished on 15 April 1959.

(from Wiki and other sources)

shortCummins · Post by **shortCummins** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:45 pm

love the Corsair and this looks like a nice kit, enjoy the build

rgds
John(shortCummins)

TonyCnyc · Post by **TonyCnyc** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 8:03 pm

Always look forward to Corsair builds!

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:48 am

Cheers guys im sure i will.

Right lets get started on this puppy.

The 1st step of this build is to get he engine together.

There is no flash anywhere but there are some seam lines to clean up.

Im thinking about adding some wires and what have you but we will see.

Next up is the cockpit and to say its basic is and understatement.

Next up is the engine cowling.

This an area i think i can approve on i was going to use plasty card but i would have to thin the nose to much. So i got out mt tamiya scriber and and cut away the plastic between the flaps.

because this area is quite weak i use some white tack to support it.

so once that was done we are left with this.

before.

and after.

and all complete.

there is still more work i want to do on this bit but I'll leave that for the next installment.

and all i did last night.

Thats it for this installment until next time.

nero · Post by **nero** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:55 pm

Great start mate!!! I will have to keep checking your progress to see what I can copy in my own build

Jokes aside, good luck with the build, its looking great already!

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Fri Apr 03, 2015 5:52 pm

Cheers nero

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Fri Apr 03, 2015 6:06 pm

Time for another update.

So in this update Ill be improving the engine as its a bit Basic.

So i started by getting the bits and bobs ready for the plumbing on the engine.

It help some times when you work for a telecoms company

And with the insulation removed.

i started with the ring that goes round the hub of the engine with .5mm wire.

i then cut down some .5 wire and put a little bend on it

and started to super glue them in place.

and here you can see the finished plumbing

next it was time for the tubes coming from the ring and i used some really thin strands of copper wire.

which i twisted together to give me a "Y" shape

then glued into place at one end.

i apply the glue with a cut down needle something i learnt form another member

and once its all glued at both ends this is the finished engine.

Again has always thanks for viewing guys.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:58 am

so on with the next update im still working on the cowling for this build.

as you can see on the cowling there is a strip that stands proud and two of these sit right on the seam line so they got sanded of in the process of removing the seam line.

so i can some strip styrene to replace them with.

and cut them into the correct shape.

and glued them onto the cowling these will be sanded down to nearer the same width has the ones on the side.

again in the process some of the rivet detail was lost has it was rather soft so using a old darning needle i put this detail back.

a few more bits and bobs done.

i also added some seatbelts with some 2mm tape to the cockpit.

any way thansks for looking guys.

heel · Post by **heel** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:01 pm

Hey Nige it's looking first rate. Do you cut the cowling flaps at the seams and then bend? Or do you remove completely and reinforce with strip styrene? I may attempt this technique on the Hellcat, but I've never done it before.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:31 pm

heel wrote:Hey Nige it's looking first rate. Do you cut the cowling flaps at the seams and then bend? Or do you remove completely and reinforce with strip styrene? I may attempt this technique on the Hellcat, but I've never done it before.

with this build mate the cowling flaps came in two choices open or closed so it was just a case of modifying the open ones. i did try and make some out of styrene but i couldnt mount it any where so this was my second option.

UKguyInUSA · Post by **UKguyInUSA** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:15 pm

Looks like a nice kit, and a great war plane to build! Greats start on the engine and cowling with the scratch-building and modifications!

Cheers

Martin

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 6:58 pm

Cheers Martin. yeah its a nice kit just a bit basic.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:13 pm

Update time.

More work on the engine cowling flaps and its time to look at the actuator mechanisms.

I started by cutting small bits of sheet styrene for the actuators to sit on

And added them to the the cowling.

and there we are all glued in place.

Next up the rods them selves im not going to be able to replicate them properly but i can still make it look something like i hope.
so with some thin styrene rod i cut 8 smaller bits then cut them in half giving me 16 short bits.

I then bent them in half

And glued them into place.

And with all of them in place.

On the real aircraft there is a wire that links them all up so this is the next step. To do this i use some trusty .5mm copper wire.

Then i just feed it around inside the "lugs" and this is what i have ended up with.

I know most of this will not be seen but I'll know it there.

Next i move on to the undercarrage and again out with the wire to add some break pipes.

To add the "P" clips i just cut some 2mm tamiya tape in half and took a little bit and put it place.

So thats it for now next step will be primer for this lot and then some paint.
Again as always thanks for looking

TheWeasel · Post by **TheWeasel** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:45 pm

Impressive work, nige! Love it!

martin57 · Post by **martin57** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:17 pm

Nice work looking good like all the wire

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:48 pm

Freaking awesome bit of scratch!!!

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 2:56 pm

Thanks Guys mean a lot you all stopping by.

Update time

So its time to get some paint on this puppy starting with of course primer

Then its time to add some colour to the cockpit i used Vallejo interior green

and Vallejo hemp for the seat belts.

Silver to the wheel hubs

and sprayed the prop tip in preparation for the yellow later on

Again interior green for inside the cowling.

Also gave the engine a coat of black then dry brushed with silver and the paint the tubing black again lol

While that lot was drying i noticed the wing lights where solid plastic so i decided to try and fix that.

I started to cut the "lights" out with my scriber which i forgot to take a photo off

once that was done i found two pit of clear systrene and made sure they would fit then i drilled into them each and painted one "light bulb" orange and the other blue.

Once all that was done it was glued in place which i will show in the next update.

For the instrument panel i decided to use the decals because the panel had recess's for the dials and i thought i would be able to get them to bed down which i did

After a coat of clear it was time for a wash with Ultimate's dark dirt.
then finially a coat of matt varnish.

Ill be putting some crystal Klear on the dials when i get chance which will hopefully give the appearance of glass for them

Well that's it for now guys thanks for stopping by.

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:48 pm

Nice work on those wing tip lights Nige. I never would have thought to do that. Very cool.
That cowling still looks wicked.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:01 am

Cheers Mike I'm really enjoying this build.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:05 am

Update time.

So following on from the last update here is the dash board with the crystal clear on the dials.

And both wing tips with the clear sprue in place ready to be sanded down.

My weapon of choice is the Ultimate sanders starting with the white sander and moving down to the buffer and polisher.

after a bit of sanding

And how they look when ive finshed

here is the engine in place. it will be added to the air-frame once if done all the painting

i drilled out the gun port and i was thinking that i would put some metal tubing in for the guns themselves but after looking at some photos online i saw that they couldnt been seen so just left them drilled.

So with those drilled out it was time to fit them to the wings with the rad intakes at the wing roots. and the fits not great so some work will be need to get them seamless.

So it was out with the filler but has i needed to reshape bits i decided to use some "home made" filler Paul has mentioned it a few times and ive used it quite a few times and it dose a good job.
some old Liquid Poly with cut up styrene in it.

and what you end up with is a grey gloppy mess that goes rock hard like the plastic once dry the only down side it can take a while to dry if applied too thick best put on in thin coats and build it up.

so ill leave this to dry for a couple of days and sand it down.

i also managed to ge the fuselage joined with the cockpit in.

Anyway that's where im at at the mo.
As always thanks for looking.

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:35 pm

Very very cool work Nige... especially those wing tip lights. Those are awesome!!!

heel · Post by **heel** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:49 pm

This a killer build. Always look forward to these updates.

UKguyInUSA · Post by **UKguyInUSA** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:46 pm

Awesome work so far Nige, she's starting to come together nicely! Look forward to your next update!

Cheers

Martin

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:48 am

Much appreciated guys. and thanks for stopping by

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:55 am

Update time

Not alot done in this update but she is starting to come together.

I started with the exhausts they wernt great so i drilled and hollowed them out so they look a little better.

I hope you you can see they look better.

i sanded the bits down on the wings that needed it and attached the wings to the fuselage.

there was a gap on the right side where the wing joins so i fill it with some plasti card.

the rest was filled the same way i did the wings

Next up was the drop tank as it was a bit boring i decided to add a fuel cap and some bolts just to give it a little lift.

so out came my pin vice with a needle.

And my draftsman template with some plasti card taped to the back to keep it in place.

and after a couple of seconds ringing it with the needle this is what im left with.

for the bolts i took some styrene strips and cut small bits off for the bolts

and here we are before ive sanded them down a little

and after

Well thats it for this update see you on the next one guys

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:03 am

Most awesome and excellent update Nige.
Those little improvements really go a long way.

heel · Post by **heel** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 12:35 pm

It just gets better. Thanks for the update Nige.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Wed May 06, 2015 6:53 pm

heel wrote:It just gets better. Thanks for the update Nige.

Cheers buddy hoping to get back to her soon (hoping this evening)

chief5437 · Post by **chief5437** » Wed May 06, 2015 7:24 pm

Looking good Nige, nice work buddy

Joesdad · Post by **Joesdad** » Wed May 06, 2015 8:29 pm

It's all coming together nicely Nige. Coen's right it's the little things that make the difference

Kingdan · Post by **Kingdan** » Wed May 06, 2015 11:57 pm

Awesome the lights and tank are mint lovin it

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Thu May 07, 2015 8:32 am

Cheers guys.

right next update.

Time to mask up the canopy i dipped it in some klear ive had this bottle for about 5 years. I just pour it into the cap and dip the canopy in then wick the excess off before putting it in a sealed container on some kitchen paper. Then ill leave it over night to dry and harden.

once dry its nice and shinny.

Then its time to mask it i use a cut down cocktail stick to burnish the tape down.

Then using 2mm tape for the straight edges

i lay it down and burnish it down and and where the frame is i gentle cut it with a brand new craft blade only using the weight of the blade and run it along the frame until it cuts through.

For the windscreen i use 10mm tape and do the same.

And here it is all masked.

And where i am now just needs a clean then mask the cockpit up and it will be ready for primer.

As always guys thanks for looking

Willem · Post by **Willem** » Thu May 07, 2015 9:52 am

Just catching up with your build mate. Great detail as always and loving the plastic poly filler, great tip.

heel · Post by **heel** » Thu May 07, 2015 12:25 pm

No shortcuts in this build. Great tutorial on what you're doing.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon May 18, 2015 10:11 am

cheers Guys

Update time

ive not been able to get much done on this as it in the paint stage (the wife has been ill)

what what i did get done was this.

here she is all primed. i normally use car primer from halford or somewhere like that has it give a nice tough finish.

then its on with the aluminum from Vallejo

then some preshading

once this was done the whole lot go a couple of thin coats of hair spray (just normal cheap stuff from tesco's) ill be using this and masking fluid for the chipping

and that where i am at the mo hopefully has ive got some time off this week ill be able to get some paint on her.

thanks for stopping by

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Mon May 18, 2015 11:07 am

That's looking really cool now Nige.
I can't wait to see how that chipping looks. Should be interesting.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon May 18, 2015 2:36 pm

Coen wrote:That's looking really cool now Nige.
I can't wait to see how that chipping looks. Should be interesting.

cheers buddy you and me both lol

ladip63 · Post by **ladip63** » Mon May 18, 2015 7:39 pm

I just now got caught up with your build Nige. Love the little touches you are doing. WOW!! that is a great job you are doing. I hope I get to that level one day. I'll be watching this one

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon May 18, 2015 7:42 pm

ladip63 wrote:I just now got caught up with your build Nige. Love the little touches you are doing. WOW!! that is a great job you are doing. I hope I get to that level one day. I'll be watching this one

Thanks mate

TonyCnyc · Post by **TonyCnyc** » Tue May 19, 2015 7:12 pm

Nice tips there with the canopy masking. Coming along great.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Thu May 21, 2015 8:17 pm

TonyCnyc wrote:Nice tips there with the canopy masking. Coming along great.

Thanks Tony.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon May 25, 2015 10:11 am

Hi Guys

Update time and on with the painting.

I started by applying a couple of thin coats of hairspray.
Heres the one i use (nicked from the wife)

After that i added some masking fluid with a cocktail stick

I hope you can make out the masking

So next was the paint im using these for this build

they are a really nice paint but are quite thick so need thinning and can block up your nozzle quite easily i use Ultimate thinner which does the job but i tried using water and to be honest i think the sprayed a tad better.

I started with the white on the undersides.
Then moved on to the "Intermediate Blue" from the pack before moving on to the "semi gloss sea blue"

and the engine cowling

As you can see ive taken the masking off and added chipping with a damp brush and lifted some of the paint of with it. and because of the hairspray it
comes of really easily so be careful.

I also did the prop but i think i may tone it back a little.

and where im at now.

Ive added some wear tear to just under where the pilot would get in by just taking so paint of with a sanding stick.

So thats it for this update guys next up with be the decals before i move on tho the weathering.

Thanks for looking guys.

Coen · Post by **Coen** » Mon May 25, 2015 11:56 am

Really cool experimental stuff Nige. Lots to learn from.
I really like the look of that chipping.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Mon May 25, 2015 1:18 pm

Coen wrote:Really cool experimental stuff Nige. Lots to learn from.
I really like the look of that chipping.

Cheers Mike

ladip63 · Post by **ladip63** » Tue May 26, 2015 3:05 am

Looking good Nige.

Nige201980 · Post by **Nige201980** » Thu May 28, 2015 6:34 am

ladip63 wrote:Looking good Nige.

Thank you mate.