help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciated
-
emadriss
- New Recruit
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:04 am
help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciated
I have been making models since I was a young kid - I sucked at it as a child as now I suck at it as an adult - I so desperately want to learn this hobby but it is extremely difficult for me to even complete 1 model. I know the rewards are great - admiring a model that looks like a museum piece - but the journey to get there, for me, is long and extremely arduous. I have done many things in my life: semiconductor engineer, musician playing many different instruments, recording engineer, and now as a professional photographer - none of these endeavors is as difficult as making an aircraft model for me! I have made a commitment in time and resources to accomplish my goal of making professional looking models but I am failing.
Please I need your help.
The following is where I am failing as a modeler
Cockpits
I can do these pretty well but I have had some issues - on the tamiya 1/72 mustang I could not position the tiny decal seatbelts and they broke; also I had a hard time settling down the control panel decal for the tamiya p47d kit - it got dissolved while I was applying the 5th treatment to try to get it to settle down. the areas were gloss coated before decal placement. - I had no replacements for these 2 decals. the key it seems to painting the small details on a cockpit is having a very small paint brush with a very sharp tip and a trimmed toothpick to dot paint the small control buttons - are there any other techniques for making cockpit painting easier and more efficient in 1/72 and 1/48 scales, especially when applying small decals to the cockpit areas?
Parts Removal
I can remove small parts from the sprues with no issues but removing the fuselage parts with 3- 4 attachment tabs is always a problems for me. I trim to 1/32 to 1/16 away from the part and finish trimming with an xacto knife - I always wind up creating a scar where the attachment was, even though I am very careful with regards to my trimming - any tips or tricks to make this cut without the resulting scars?
Decals
Decals are very difficult for me, even though I believe I am using the right equipment and setting solutions. the main problem I am having with decals is the final placement - even with a gloss coat, once the decal is on the surface of the model, many times it is very difficult to move into the correct position - there are an infinite array of wrong positions and only 1 correct one in many cases. how can the placement of decals be made easier? - I am using the correct techniques (using a wet paint brush to move the decal and using a setting solution to get it to conform with the surface of the model, that has been correctly gloss coated with Future) - what tips and tricks are there to move the decals into their correct position without breaking the decal?
Gluing the fuselage
this modeling skill is very difficult for me and is basically a kit killer for me as well. I have spent about $200.00 in the last 2 months trying to get a model to completion with no success. the models I have bought are as follows: revell 1/48 p47 and p51 - atrocious kits with extremely poor fit, uneven steps and panel line misalignments - avoid at all cost even though they are inexpensive; revell p47 1/72 scale - another atrocious kit with horrible alignment issues, especially the engine cowling; tamiya p51 in 1/48 and 1/72 and the p47d in 1/72 scale - better for alignment but they all have seams that need to be filled, many of which are near critical fuselage details - I have not learned how to rescribe panel lines or recreate rivets etc. I am using 400, 600 and 1500 grit wet and dry sandpaper using it wet. almost all of the models above have had very poor wing root attachments that needed extensive and very careful sanding to remove - many have steps at that attachment point that were very difficult to remove - I am paying very close attention when assembling the fuselage halves but many times I am getting steps only on one side of the fuselage or wing root.
I am using tamiya thin cement with their great brush to glue the 2 halves together and I am using tamiya putty and nail polish remover to get rid of the seams but this is a very tedious and exasperating process for me. I have combed the internet looking for techniques, yet this is the most difficult area of modeling for me - what am I doing wrong - are there better ways to approach this difficult aspect of modeling?
Canopies
Extremely difficult for me - how do you mask these small areas of the canopy structure so that the correct color can be painted while maintaining the clear nature of the glass? do you have any masking tips besides buying masking kits for the model being built?
Painting
This is as far as I have gotten to building a single model and I am having many problems. the most severe one is that the paint is drying before it gets on the surface of the model, creating a very rough surface. I live in New Mexico and it is extremely dry here, with very low humidity and no rain. I am using tamiya acrylic paint for most of my painting - I believe the paint is thinned correctly and I am using an airbrush at 10 psi. I am also airbrushing very close to the model - all techniques recommended by finescale modeler. any suggestion on how to get rid of the rough painting, even though I am following the correct techniques?
I would greatly appreciate any help in making my models better so I can at least complete one! any recommendations for a kit that would be easier to complete than the ones already listed?
Please I need your help.
The following is where I am failing as a modeler
Cockpits
I can do these pretty well but I have had some issues - on the tamiya 1/72 mustang I could not position the tiny decal seatbelts and they broke; also I had a hard time settling down the control panel decal for the tamiya p47d kit - it got dissolved while I was applying the 5th treatment to try to get it to settle down. the areas were gloss coated before decal placement. - I had no replacements for these 2 decals. the key it seems to painting the small details on a cockpit is having a very small paint brush with a very sharp tip and a trimmed toothpick to dot paint the small control buttons - are there any other techniques for making cockpit painting easier and more efficient in 1/72 and 1/48 scales, especially when applying small decals to the cockpit areas?
Parts Removal
I can remove small parts from the sprues with no issues but removing the fuselage parts with 3- 4 attachment tabs is always a problems for me. I trim to 1/32 to 1/16 away from the part and finish trimming with an xacto knife - I always wind up creating a scar where the attachment was, even though I am very careful with regards to my trimming - any tips or tricks to make this cut without the resulting scars?
Decals
Decals are very difficult for me, even though I believe I am using the right equipment and setting solutions. the main problem I am having with decals is the final placement - even with a gloss coat, once the decal is on the surface of the model, many times it is very difficult to move into the correct position - there are an infinite array of wrong positions and only 1 correct one in many cases. how can the placement of decals be made easier? - I am using the correct techniques (using a wet paint brush to move the decal and using a setting solution to get it to conform with the surface of the model, that has been correctly gloss coated with Future) - what tips and tricks are there to move the decals into their correct position without breaking the decal?
Gluing the fuselage
this modeling skill is very difficult for me and is basically a kit killer for me as well. I have spent about $200.00 in the last 2 months trying to get a model to completion with no success. the models I have bought are as follows: revell 1/48 p47 and p51 - atrocious kits with extremely poor fit, uneven steps and panel line misalignments - avoid at all cost even though they are inexpensive; revell p47 1/72 scale - another atrocious kit with horrible alignment issues, especially the engine cowling; tamiya p51 in 1/48 and 1/72 and the p47d in 1/72 scale - better for alignment but they all have seams that need to be filled, many of which are near critical fuselage details - I have not learned how to rescribe panel lines or recreate rivets etc. I am using 400, 600 and 1500 grit wet and dry sandpaper using it wet. almost all of the models above have had very poor wing root attachments that needed extensive and very careful sanding to remove - many have steps at that attachment point that were very difficult to remove - I am paying very close attention when assembling the fuselage halves but many times I am getting steps only on one side of the fuselage or wing root.
I am using tamiya thin cement with their great brush to glue the 2 halves together and I am using tamiya putty and nail polish remover to get rid of the seams but this is a very tedious and exasperating process for me. I have combed the internet looking for techniques, yet this is the most difficult area of modeling for me - what am I doing wrong - are there better ways to approach this difficult aspect of modeling?
Canopies
Extremely difficult for me - how do you mask these small areas of the canopy structure so that the correct color can be painted while maintaining the clear nature of the glass? do you have any masking tips besides buying masking kits for the model being built?
Painting
This is as far as I have gotten to building a single model and I am having many problems. the most severe one is that the paint is drying before it gets on the surface of the model, creating a very rough surface. I live in New Mexico and it is extremely dry here, with very low humidity and no rain. I am using tamiya acrylic paint for most of my painting - I believe the paint is thinned correctly and I am using an airbrush at 10 psi. I am also airbrushing very close to the model - all techniques recommended by finescale modeler. any suggestion on how to get rid of the rough painting, even though I am following the correct techniques?
I would greatly appreciate any help in making my models better so I can at least complete one! any recommendations for a kit that would be easier to complete than the ones already listed?
-
Johni044
- Sergeant First Class

- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:29 pm
- Location: Skelmersdale, Lancashire, U.K.
Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
I'm not that qualified to give advice as my models are not to high standards, my overriding aim is to have fun a little escapism for a few minutes each day. I suspect you may be being to critical of your results, or trying to run before you can walk.
Cockpits, I don't use anything special just a small flat paintbrush. Using a wash and dry brushing will bring out detail. Aftermarket seatbelts can be sourced or thin strips of Tamiya tape is wine bottle foil can be painted and cut as an alternative.
Parts removal I use a scalpel and nirmally leave a little of the gate on the part and trim back. And scars in the plastic tend to disappear when painted. If worried a slight rub with fine grade wet and dry should sort.
Decals. Rarely have a problem with, apply to a gloss surface, I make sure there is water on the location, I slide it in place with my scalpel and then gently roll kitchen paper over it to absurd the excess liquid. I personally use Revell Decalsoft which keys the decal to the surface detail in all but really heavy relief places. Some can just disintegrate when they touch water in which case I would try and source some aftermarket alternatives.
Glueing
I often get a step in the fuselage, judicious sanding and the use of a good filer normaly resolves. A scribe to restore any lost panels lines may be useful.
Canopies. Some people dip them in Klear before anything else, don't personally. Specially produced masks can be bought for some kits. Being a cheapskate I cut thin strips of Tamiya tape cut to size on the canopy and then cover then parts to remain clear with more tape trimmed to size. A small brush of clear around the tape edges helps prevent paint getting under the tape. Any that does can be removed by carefully using a toothpick.
Paint. I'm suspecting you may be brush painting with acrylics. If using acrylics always use the same brand of thinners. If it's Tamiya, I know it's possible but I havn't managed to do it. I personally use enamels to brush paint unless it's small parts. Acrylics I use in an airbrush if painting a large area fir the reasons you mention. Enamels dry a lot slower, I thin mine slightly and normally paint at least two thin coats, more if needed.
As I said initially my models are certainly not the masterpieces that some people here produce but if you check out my portfolio you will see the standards achieved from doing the above. I'm sure others on the site will offer advice on how to produce models to a higher standard.
Cockpits, I don't use anything special just a small flat paintbrush. Using a wash and dry brushing will bring out detail. Aftermarket seatbelts can be sourced or thin strips of Tamiya tape is wine bottle foil can be painted and cut as an alternative.
Parts removal I use a scalpel and nirmally leave a little of the gate on the part and trim back. And scars in the plastic tend to disappear when painted. If worried a slight rub with fine grade wet and dry should sort.
Decals. Rarely have a problem with, apply to a gloss surface, I make sure there is water on the location, I slide it in place with my scalpel and then gently roll kitchen paper over it to absurd the excess liquid. I personally use Revell Decalsoft which keys the decal to the surface detail in all but really heavy relief places. Some can just disintegrate when they touch water in which case I would try and source some aftermarket alternatives.
Glueing
I often get a step in the fuselage, judicious sanding and the use of a good filer normaly resolves. A scribe to restore any lost panels lines may be useful.
Canopies. Some people dip them in Klear before anything else, don't personally. Specially produced masks can be bought for some kits. Being a cheapskate I cut thin strips of Tamiya tape cut to size on the canopy and then cover then parts to remain clear with more tape trimmed to size. A small brush of clear around the tape edges helps prevent paint getting under the tape. Any that does can be removed by carefully using a toothpick.
Paint. I'm suspecting you may be brush painting with acrylics. If using acrylics always use the same brand of thinners. If it's Tamiya, I know it's possible but I havn't managed to do it. I personally use enamels to brush paint unless it's small parts. Acrylics I use in an airbrush if painting a large area fir the reasons you mention. Enamels dry a lot slower, I thin mine slightly and normally paint at least two thin coats, more if needed.
As I said initially my models are certainly not the masterpieces that some people here produce but if you check out my portfolio you will see the standards achieved from doing the above. I'm sure others on the site will offer advice on how to produce models to a higher standard.
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UKscalemodeller
- Chief Warrant Officer 3

- Posts: 2062
- Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 12:31 pm
Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Hi,
Welcome. ISM is a gold mine of information and advice.
Here is my 2 pence/cent/whatever currency anyone wants.
For cockpits, 5 coats of microsol (or whatever alternative you use) seems a little much, as Johni ^ said a wash and dry brushing should bring out a decent amount of detail.
As for cutting parts from the sprue, I always try to trim just away from the part and scrape and sand the part smooth. Decals are the enemy of many a modeller, just ensure that the surface of the model is wet as well as the decal, don't worry if the model is really wet, it helps the decal slide about, when it is in position then you can gently press it into position and remove the excess as above.
Getting a good finish when gluing and sticking together, in fact for any part of the process is a lot to do with taking your time, I tend to rush things sometimes and that's when I mess up.
As for painting. What are you equipment/paints are you using?
Do you have any pictures to post?
Remember, take your time for a better result, but no matter what the result, have fun doing it.
Welcome. ISM is a gold mine of information and advice.
Here is my 2 pence/cent/whatever currency anyone wants.
For cockpits, 5 coats of microsol (or whatever alternative you use) seems a little much, as Johni ^ said a wash and dry brushing should bring out a decent amount of detail.
As for cutting parts from the sprue, I always try to trim just away from the part and scrape and sand the part smooth. Decals are the enemy of many a modeller, just ensure that the surface of the model is wet as well as the decal, don't worry if the model is really wet, it helps the decal slide about, when it is in position then you can gently press it into position and remove the excess as above.
Getting a good finish when gluing and sticking together, in fact for any part of the process is a lot to do with taking your time, I tend to rush things sometimes and that's when I mess up.
As for painting. What are you equipment/paints are you using?
Do you have any pictures to post?
Remember, take your time for a better result, but no matter what the result, have fun doing it.
- Paul
- Site Admin

- Posts: 12622
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 4:47 pm
- Location: Merseyside, England, UK
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
If you watch my me109 videos, I cover a lot of this info as I go through the build.
http://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=7
http://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=7
- Lee
- Site Admin

- Posts: 7320
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 4:38 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Welcome to ISM emadriss.... 
The best advice I can give (in a short space of time) is take your time, have a good look around the site and at the members vids on youtube - All your questions will be answered. Always remember to have FUN though
The best advice I can give (in a short space of time) is take your time, have a good look around the site and at the members vids on youtube - All your questions will be answered. Always remember to have FUN though
Where does all the bloody time go.....?
Owner of Ultimate Modelling Products
Owner of Ultimate Modelling Products
- Bagpiper
- Command Sergeant Major

- Posts: 755
- Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 6:12 am
- Location: St. Louis. MO. USA
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
First of all welcome to our world. I am no expert but one thing I learned more than anything is practice, practice, practice. You sound like your doing everything you need to but having the same problems we all have had at one time or still do. Get yourself some really cheap kits and have a go at them.
You mention sprue cutting. I thought I was doing it right then just the other day I changed my cutters to a set of Fiskar scissors (attached) and all my problems have almost gone. I cut the part from the sprue using my normal cutters, then take my Fiskars and trim right up to the edge of the part. As it cuts it makes for a very clean piece with little to sand or trim down. My point here is what works for one person may not work for everyone - we all need to learn and try different ways of doing things, yes! Even sprue cutting. We all learn by our mistakes - and I have made many.
Don't be too hard on yourself my friend. I for one will never have a model in a show but I'm happy to make models at my level. If you check out my facebook page you will see I started out with papermodeling. I learned one thing from that more than anything else - patience. Take it slow.
Good luck and take each of your issues one at a time and then let's see if we can work through them with you. But above all make sure you have fun with your modeling. And we are here to help
Cheers
Jim
You mention sprue cutting. I thought I was doing it right then just the other day I changed my cutters to a set of Fiskar scissors (attached) and all my problems have almost gone. I cut the part from the sprue using my normal cutters, then take my Fiskars and trim right up to the edge of the part. As it cuts it makes for a very clean piece with little to sand or trim down. My point here is what works for one person may not work for everyone - we all need to learn and try different ways of doing things, yes! Even sprue cutting. We all learn by our mistakes - and I have made many.
Good luck and take each of your issues one at a time and then let's see if we can work through them with you. But above all make sure you have fun with your modeling. And we are here to help
Cheers
Jim
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- Bagpiper
- Command Sergeant Major

- Posts: 755
- Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 6:12 am
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Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
p.s. Check out this video for a beginners guide to building a cheap; about $10.00 US; model from start to finish. This is part 1 of 4. Pull it up in Youtube if you want to watch the rest
Cheers
Jim
[youtube]QmV_8dkqR28[/youtube]
Cheers
Jim
[youtube]QmV_8dkqR28[/youtube]
- PhildaFish
- Sergeant Major of the Army

- Posts: 1087
- Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 7:08 pm
- Location: Somerset, England
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Hi Emadriss and
to ISM.
I don't have much money to spend on the hobby, so all my tips reflect this:
1 - I have 2 match sticks that I whittled down to the right size for dotting on dials in the cockpit.
2 - I use one of my wife's old nails file for sanding any remaining unwanted plastic after cutting a piece from the sprue.
3 - I use my thumb for positioning decals and don't use any setting solutions, I have yet to find a decal that doesn't conform to a model once I've pressed down hard enough with some kitchen (paper) towel. I do have an Italeri JU-52 in the stash that may prove me wrong on that.
4 - Fuselage halves are slapped together and then filed smooth the next day. Too much filing and you end up having to re-scribe panel lines.
5 - I don't mask canopies. Tried it once and it took 3 times longer to mask than painting freehand. Just paint it freehand and if you make any mistakes wait for the paint to try then scrape the mistakes away with a cocktail stick or sharpened match.
6 - I use a good old fashioned paint brush. I have an air brush but I prefer to brush by hand. Humbrol acrylics for me. I tried Tamiya once and it wouldn't paint over the Humbrol base paint.
I hope this has helped or at least dispelled the myth that you need to spend a fortune to get the best results.
I don't have much money to spend on the hobby, so all my tips reflect this:
1 - I have 2 match sticks that I whittled down to the right size for dotting on dials in the cockpit.
2 - I use one of my wife's old nails file for sanding any remaining unwanted plastic after cutting a piece from the sprue.
3 - I use my thumb for positioning decals and don't use any setting solutions, I have yet to find a decal that doesn't conform to a model once I've pressed down hard enough with some kitchen (paper) towel. I do have an Italeri JU-52 in the stash that may prove me wrong on that.
4 - Fuselage halves are slapped together and then filed smooth the next day. Too much filing and you end up having to re-scribe panel lines.
5 - I don't mask canopies. Tried it once and it took 3 times longer to mask than painting freehand. Just paint it freehand and if you make any mistakes wait for the paint to try then scrape the mistakes away with a cocktail stick or sharpened match.
6 - I use a good old fashioned paint brush. I have an air brush but I prefer to brush by hand. Humbrol acrylics for me. I tried Tamiya once and it wouldn't paint over the Humbrol base paint.
I hope this has helped or at least dispelled the myth that you need to spend a fortune to get the best results.
Please visit my website

For instructions, historical paint charts & paint conversion charts.
Please like Scale World's Facebook page.
My Facebook page.

For instructions, historical paint charts & paint conversion charts.
Please like Scale World's Facebook page.
My Facebook page.
- Coen
- General

- Posts: 10136
- Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 2:04 am
- Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Greetings emadriss,
I have almost unlimited funds to spend on my hobby, I soon discovered that it means nothing.
Practice, Patience, Perseverance is what makes a great modeller.
Something that all of us here are still working at.
Though I may have some nice quality tools and toys for the trade, I don't use them half as much at you would think. A tooth pick is an absolute necessity on a modellers bench, so are "Q-Tips" or equivalent, paper towel, old rags, any kind of pointed tweezers and flat tweezers, nail clippers, etc.
Most of the things that are needed don't cost much at all.
The most expensive thing that you'll need is your time.
The easiest thing for you to do is to ask on this forum for some advise.
Good Luck
-
Modelpro72
- Master Sergeant

- Posts: 381
- Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 9:41 am
Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
All the advice above is really sound advice and I won't put my penny in yet because there is alot advice given and a brain freeze is not what you need right now.
I will say to you don't be affraid to post your work on here. You won't be laughed at or made to feel like a wally. We've all been there.
Looking forward to seeing your work.
Lenny
Surface to Air Models
Build It. Your Way.
Get glue on your fingers. Paint on your face and don't annoy your Mum
Build It. Your Way.
Get glue on your fingers. Paint on your face and don't annoy your Mum
- Bagpiper
- Command Sergeant Major

- Posts: 755
- Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 6:12 am
- Location: St. Louis. MO. USA
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Very well said LennyModelpro72 wrote::...I will say to you don't be affraid to post your work on here. You won't be laughed at or made to feel like a wally. We've all been there...
Cheers
Jim
- T3hGuppy
- Second Lieutenant

- Posts: 3467
- Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:20 pm
- Location: Bournemouth, UK
- Contact:

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
Im sure the guyys on here will be able to help with all your issue the best they can.
As others have said take it slow and youll have better results in the long run.
Im not a great model maker but Decals are my worst enemy (Think this is why I do so many AFV)
Anyway I hope you enjoy your time here
- muskegman
- First Sergeant

- Posts: 479
- Joined: Thu May 30, 2013 1:23 am
- Location: British Columbia , Canada

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
- Daishi12
- Warrant Officer

- Posts: 1393
- Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:25 pm
- Location: Mountain Ash, South Wales

Re: help need for new modeler assistance would be appreciate
I'm a new(ish) modeler as well and am just getting back into modeling after a break of about 20 years, so am having to re-learn some techniques. I would say that in regard to your painting given your location you may wish to try painting as early as you can in the morning before the the temperature rises, and also try enamel paints as they tend to have slower drying times than acrylics. As everyone else has said, have fun and be reassured that with practice your builds will get better. Good luck, and I hope to see some of your completed projects.
W.I.P.
Revell 1/72 P-47M
Airfix 1/72 Bristol F2B Fighter
Technical Consultation for MrsModellor :- Tamiya 1/35 S.A.S. Pink Panther
Revell 1/72 P-47M
Airfix 1/72 Bristol F2B Fighter
Technical Consultation for MrsModellor :- Tamiya 1/35 S.A.S. Pink Panther




