International Scale Modeller

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:03 am**

Wow, no Ive never seen the aluminum tube chrome tips b4 scott. Man they look really nice!

Yea.... crack open the Lotus!! I need to see more sprues!

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:48 am**

DrSprue wrote: Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:03 am Wow, no Ive never seen the aluminum tube chrome tips b4 scott. Man they look really nice!

Yea.... crack open the Lotus!! I need to see more sprues!

Ya I think I will start that up
Tweaked my back shovelling all that snow I suppose..I am on bed rest and hot pad.
Luckily have tomorrow off to recover, but was going to start the Lotus tomorrow
I am doubtful that we will have an Easter Egg sig this year on ISM, so might as well do something
Of course the minute I dive into a new kit, the clear will show up

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:52 pm**

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:48 am
DrSprue wrote: Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:03 am Wow, no Ive never seen the aluminum tube chrome tips b4 scott. Man they look really nice!

Yea.... crack open the Lotus!! I need to see more sprues!
Ya I think I will start that up
Tweaked my back shovelling all that snow I suppose..I am on bed rest and hot pad.
Luckily have tomorrow off to recover, but was going to start the Lotus tomorrow
I am doubtful that we will have an Easter Egg sig this year on ISM, so might as well do something
Of course the minute I dive into a new kit, the clear will show up

Oh dude, I understand back issues all too well. A few years ago I took out mine and could not move for a week! Good luck with the new paint.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:13 pm**

Great job on the exhaust,and the red and orange clear for the rear lights.
Don't talk to me about backs mine went last June trapped sciatic nerve, went to phsio nearly every week, just getting better by
November and bang it goes again, I am now seeing a osteopath, touch wood the backs getting back to being pain free.

Posted: **Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:48 pm**

I have repaired the scratch on the fender and now sprayed it red.
I am considering doing another overall colour coat to try and get it all smooth
Then the weekend plan is to try the two part clear by Gravity Colors, maybe a polish shine if needed

I have three builds to finish before April 30th

Posted: **Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:48 pm**

looks great mate

Posted: **Sat Apr 14, 2018 8:35 pm**

Hold onto your bits, I am gonna try the Gravity 2K

Posted: **Sat Apr 14, 2018 11:46 pm**

WTF, the 2k is orange peeling on me as it dries
This f’ing sucks

Posted: **Sun Apr 15, 2018 4:10 am**

Getting some FB feedback that the base paint layer might not have been strong enough for the 2k
It was Tamiya Acrylics + Tamiya Laquer thinner. But I had a clear red layer as well on top while I waited for the 2k clear to arrive.
That last layer might have been the culprit.
Paul uses Tamiya TS decanted spray paint on his cars many times with zero overtop...the TS spray is a better base for a 2k I suppose

Crap this really sucks.

Posted: **Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:59 am**

Aww dude....

Posted: **Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:49 am**

It has to be the clear red mate, I’ve had no problems over normal Tamiya before. Either that or the 2k is to blame. This really sucks

Posted: **Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:46 pm**

Paul wrote: Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:49 am It has to be the clear red mate, I’ve had no problems over normal Tamiya before. Either that or the 2k is to blame. This really sucks

I thought that was it as well.
BUT, I repainted a fender due to a scratch and did not add the clear red.
After 2k, that fender has wrinkled up too

If I strip it, wonder if I should go and decant some Tamiya TS rattle can red and use that

Posted: **Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:02 am**

My first attempt with ZP 2k clear produced the exact same result. Just practice with some spare parts and you will figure out how to spray it. I think temp plays a decent role. It was pretty cold when I first tried.

Posted: **Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm**

Ok, I have regrouped and am back at this Ferrari.
I really have nothing to lose so decided to wet sand half the hood and then use Gravity’s compound polishers

The results were meh.
It has taken out most of the orange peel, but not all. I have basically polished off the 2k and am shining up the paint.
In comparison to the 2k body, it looks very dull and the reality of trying to get the entire body smoothed and shiny withought going through the paint is unrealistic. Time wise as well.

So into the glass bath of oven cleaner she goes

Pics when Flickr decides to work...posted of FB in the meantime

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:28 am**

Damn nice work on the car Scott. Sorry to hear about the orange peel but I bet you can get it worked out. I'd be interested on your process to correct it as it has happened to me from Tim etc time.

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:26 am**

HIghAltitudeScale wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:28 am Damn nice work on the car Scott. Sorry to hear about the orange peel but I bet you can get it worked out. I'd be interested on your process to correct it as it has happened to me from Tim etc time.

Thanks Brett

I have all ready completely stripped the hood with oven cleaner right down to the plastic.
Gave it a wet sand @3000 grit and have primed the underside grey
The body is half stripped and sits waiting for me to give it another go with the oven cleaner
I WILL get this better than it was before I wrecked it

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:05 am**

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:26 am I WILL get this better than it was before I wrecked it

You will buddy

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:01 pm**

Kevthemodeller wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:05 am
Twokidsnosleep wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:26 am I WILL get this better than it was before I wrecked it
You will buddy

Oh Yes I will
Pics finally loaded up

Before

Half polished hood

Polishing weaponry

Comparison with body...nope, gotta strip it just doesn't shine up well

Into the oven cleaner

It is in the clear itself, the paint is not affected.
I have a suspicion it is a water issue as my moisture trap was very wet

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:19 pm**

Come to think of it, my failed attempt with 2k was prior to installing a moisture trap. You may be on to something with that.

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:28 pm**

I have one on the compressor and one on my airbrush. I’ve noticed from time to time water in the second trap but only a tiny amount.

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:58 pm**

Nev wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:28 pm I have one on the compressor and one on my airbrush. I’ve noticed from time to time water in the second trap but only a tiny amount.

bfrd wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:19 pm Come to think of it, my failed attempt with 2k was prior to installing a moisture trap. You may be on to something with that.

Ya guys I am pretty sure that was the cause
The trap had standing water in the bottom of it and man it was a rainy day
The layers of paint seem unaffected under the 2k when I sand it off and the plastic so far is nice and smooth after I strip it off...thank god
Evidence points to a moisture contamination thing
It is easier to strip the whole car and repaint rather than try and sand this all off

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:26 pm**

Glad to hear you're working through your issues. That's the way to stick with it. Here's hoping attempt 2 goes much better!

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:52 pm**

BobM wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:26 pm Glad to hear you're working through your issues. That's the way to stick with it. Here's hoping attempt 2 goes much better!

I got LOTS of issues Bob, lots of issues

Posted: **Tue Apr 17, 2018 10:28 pm**

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:52 pm
BobM wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:26 pm Glad to hear you're working through your issues. That's the way to stick with it. Here's hoping attempt 2 goes much better!
I got LOTS of issues Bob, lots of issues

Guess I should have been more specific.

Glad to hear you're working through your issues with your builds.

Posted: **Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:42 am**

Got at the body with the Easy Off oven cleaner tonight

Then did a wet sand 1200, 2000, 3000, 3600 and 6000

Still some rough stuff to get smoothed out, but pretty happy to get it to this point
Interested to see what a bit of primer looks like on her

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 4:42 am**

Doing a bit of forensics on trying to find why this clear effort went south

I bought one of these, an in-line moisture trap, to combat water

I get it all set up and shoot the Spitfire egg AK ocean grey....absolutely fine
Then I pull the set up all apart to inspect and I find moisture on the o ring between the airbrush and the new trap...hmmm

Then I turn the compressor on and it blows moist air out at me....hhhmm hmmm hmmm

When I look at the pump’s moisture trap, I find it is again soaking wet with condensing water inside it.
So now I have pulled it all apart and am letting it air dry. The hose must dry out as well.

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The relative humidity in the room is 31% according to my little moisture meter clock
I am 99.9% sure now that water contamination is what happened to me with the Gravity clear.
I was really surprised to find how wet that air was blowing out the line when I disconnected the airbrush

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:16 am**

That’s great got to the bottom of the issue Scott. The inline filter should help. Not sure on your compressor but can you drain the tank at all?

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:04 am**

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Apr 20, 2018 4:42 am Doing a bit of forensics on trying to find why this clear effort went south
I bought one of these, an in-line moisture trap, to combat water

I get it all set up and shoot the Spitfire egg AK ocean grey....absolutely fine
Then I pull the set up all apart to inspect and I find moisture on the o ring between the airbrush and the new trap...hmmm
Then I turn the compressor on and it blows moist air out at me....hhhmm hmmm hmmm
When I look at the pump’s moisture trap, I find it is again soaking wet with condensing water inside it.
So now I have pulled it all apart and am letting it air dry. The hose must dry out as well.

The relative humidity in the room is 31% according to my little moisture meter clock
I am 99.9% sure now that water contamination is what happened to me with the Gravity clear.
I was really surprised to find how wet that air was blowing out the line when I disconnected the airbrush

When you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:31 pm**

Nev wrote: Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:16 am That’s great got to the bottom of the issue Scott. The inline filter should help. Not sure on your compressor but can you drain the tank at all?

I think Nev has a point. If you got that much moisture so quickly, the tank must be wet. Almost all compressor tanks have a valve on the very bottom. Open that puppy up and drain out any water.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 3:53 pm**

bfrd wrote: Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:31 pm
Nev wrote: Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:16 am That’s great got to the bottom of the issue Scott. The inline filter should help. Not sure on your compressor but can you drain the tank at all?
I think Nev has a point. If you got that much moisture so quickly, the tank must be wet. Almost all compressor tanks have a valve on the very bottom. Open that puppy up and drain out any water.

Hmm
There isn't a separate storage tank on this unit and I drain the air pressure out of the unit after every use
Hoping this isn't the beginning of something more expensive

Posted: **Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:06 pm**

It is like déjà vu all over again

Next a light Tamiya yellow and then decanted TS-8 Italian red
Crap I forgot to prime the hood

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:16 am**

Ok More progress. Yellow base color and have decanted the TS-8 red
I will leave this paint to degass until tomorrow night. Maybe spray color tomorrow after work

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 7:14 am**

Assuming you are going to clear coat this, I've used Tamiya sprays in the past on bodys and had issues with degassing. There is a consensus that if you leave it to degass before clear it has to be for almost a month or the paint will eventually crack. Alternatively you can add clear within a few hours of the last coat and it will be fine as the layers should shrink and degass together.

I have a Subaru Impreza that after 3 years the TS underneath eventually cracked when I applied the clear after a couple of hours using the above advice on line. Maybe I applied the paint a touch thick? In did the usual must tack coats and a couple of minimal wet coats with flash off in between.

If I were you I would seriously consider leaving the body for at least a couple of weeks (or a month) before adding the clear, for this reason I moved to zero paints and have had no issues putting the clear on at any point at all. Even right after a flash off of the base layer.

Have a look on line for Tamiya paint cracking problems and you will find more info that backs this up.

I don't really post on here much but I wouldn't like to see the car start crazing after 2 to 3 years like mine did - especially after what had happened to your car!

Good work on the build so far

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:11 am**

Love your dedication my friend. Looks like you're off to a good start with the yellow

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:59 pm**

niro750 wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 7:14 am Assuming you are going to clear coat this, I've used Tamiya sprays in the past on bodys and had issues with degassing. There is a consensus that if you leave it to degass before clear it has to be for almost a month or the paint will eventually crack. Alternatively you can add clear within a few hours of the last coat and it will be fine as the layers should shrink and degass together.

I have a Subaru Impreza that after 3 years the TS underneath eventually cracked when I applied the clear after a couple of hours using the above advice on line. Maybe I applied the paint a touch thick? In did the usual must tack coats and a couple of minimal wet coats with flash off in between.

If I were you I would seriously consider leaving the body for at least a couple of weeks (or a month) before adding the clear, for this reason I moved to zero paints and have had no issues putting the clear on at any point at all. Even right after a flash off of the base layer.

Have a look on line for Tamiya paint cracking problems and you will find more info that backs this up.

I don't really post on here much but I wouldn't like to see the car start crazing after 2 to 3 years like mine did - especially after what had happened to your car!

Good work on the build so far

Wasn't a paint issue, it was the 2K clear got water contamination.
Paint was ok when I sanded the clear away, but easier to strip and start over than try to sand it all out.
The Tamiya paint on the model had sat for three months waiting for the clear order to arrive

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:00 pm**

Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:11 am Love your dedication my friend. Looks like you're off to a good start with the yellow

Once I get p'd off, I either destroy the offending item or fix it better than it was...depends on my mood

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:42 pm**

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:00 pm
Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:11 am Love your dedication my friend. Looks like you're off to a good start with the yellow

Once I get p'd off, I either destroy the offending item or fix it better than it was...depends on my mood

I confess I’m more of an option A kind of guy!

The last project that beat me was a heavy paper model of the Apollo LUT. Sheer frustration and boredom got the better of me so I circular filed the damn thing

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:37 pm**

Wow that underlying yellow color looks pretty nice Scott. The red on top should make it pop like crazy. Good luck bud.

Posted: **Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:18 pm**

Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:42 pm
Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:00 pm
Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:11 am Love your dedication my friend. Looks like you're off to a good start with the yellow

Once I get p'd off, I either destroy the offending item or fix it better than it was...depends on my mood
I confess I’m more of an option A kind of guy!

The last project that beat me was a heavy paper model of the Apollo LUT. Sheer frustration and boredom got the better of me so I circular filed the damn thing

That would have looked interesting lit on fire

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 2:06 am**

I had a few doubts that I could bring this back from it’s wrinkly clear corpse, but pretty happy with the red color coats today

Tomorrow I gloss and I might just sneak it in before the end of the month

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 6:14 am**

DrSprue wrote: Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:37 pm Wow that underlying yellow color looks pretty nice Scott. The red on top should make it pop like crazy. Good luck bud.

Thanks TONY, I think it is better than the original job paint was

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 7:52 am**

Looking good Scott,

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 9:17 am**

Still trying to catch up on everything and this one has really put you through the wringer hasn't it?

Great recovery though Scott, that yellow coat really does look very sweet and the red over the top of it is really eye-catching!

Stunning work

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 1:07 pm**

Looking tasty. That red looks nice and rich. Smooth too.

Posted: **Sat Apr 28, 2018 7:21 pm**

Mr Color GX 122 UV cut clear sprayed this am...pretty happy with this.
Will do a bit if a polish after it cures a bit

Posted: **Sun Apr 29, 2018 3:57 pm**

Looking good mate, very good.

Posted: **Sun Apr 29, 2018 5:14 pm**

Kevthemodeller wrote: Sun Apr 29, 2018 3:57 pm Looking good mate, very good.

She is coming along buddy, she is coming...kicking and screaming mid you

Posted: **Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:31 am**

Ho vie, this thing has been a true vixen
Twice painted and cleared
Fight with firewall and engine for, fight with frame and suspension fit
Engine hoses that re no where near a correct length
Stupid puddly front bumpers that detract from the lines.....on and on
So she is off into the reveal

International Scale Modeller

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