SkyPainter303's 1:24 Owens-Corning 427 Corvette

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Wed Jan 03, 2018 4:37 am

This is my first purchase of 2018. I've wanted this kit for a while and finally got it on eBay for $19.99 USD delivered. The box has a copyright date of 1991 while the instructions say 1992. The kit arrived opened, but the parts were in their original bag. The decals are also in great shape. Tire are nicely molded with Goodyear Logos and "Sports Car Special." The instructions are in old Monogram style as a large fold out sheet.

I believe this kit is the standard Monogram Corvette kit with parts added to build the race car. Parts will need to be de-chromed and the body may need modification to make an accurate replica.

P1040743 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040744 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040749 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040748 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040750 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Car history as taken from the instructions:

There's a red and while Corvette racer that has a certified pedigree to justify its immortality in racing. The Owens-Corning Fiberglass Corvette is, quite simply, the winningest Corvetter ever.

Starting in 1969, the Owens-Corning car snapped off 22 consecutive A-Production wins in Sports Car Club of America competition, a Corvette winning streak that remains unbroken today. There was no other car that could beat the Owens-Corning Corvette for nearly two years. Chief guru of the Owejns-Corning Corvette was driver Tony DeLorenzo. With the help of Chevrolet Engineer Jerry Thompson, he created the winning team from equal parts of sweat, slick public relations and sweet driving. They beat all comers, including other Chevrolets.

The Owens-Corning team cars began life as special order L88 convertibles. They rolled off the assembly line in St. Louis in 1968. At its heart was the awesome 427 c.i.d. V-8 with aluminum cylinder heads and a gas-sucking Holley 850-cam carburetor. Though factory-rated at 430 hp, the L88 was pumping more than 500 hp. Offered as a regular production option, the L88 was Chevrolet's gift to road racers eager to flatten a few Cobras.

The crowning achievement of the Owens-Corning Team was their National Championship victory on the high banks of Daytona. They qualified one-two on the grid and Jerry Thompson went on to win the championship at an average speed of 106.2 mph.

It looks like one of the team cars went to auction but did not sell. The estimate was $950,000 - $1,350,000 USD

https://www.rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/ ... car/280712

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:30 pm

Oh cool.. who in this world does NOT love a corvette! Great layout of sprues and history!

gaz45 · Post by **gaz45** » Wed Jan 03, 2018 3:29 pm

Oooh looks great mate

OlaHansson · Post by **OlaHansson** » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:13 pm

I was looking at that model yeasterday!!!
Looks nice

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:11 am

Nice to see something different
Good luck with it

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Thu Jan 04, 2018 5:54 pm

In the usual fashion, build begins with the engine.

I separated the engine parts and cleaned up what little flash and seams were present. I also glued the engine halves together. I thought it interesting that the oil pan is molded together with the block and transmission. Oil pans are usually molded separately.

P1040752 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

There are many chrome plated parts in this kit, per the American tradition. A few minutes in Easy Off Oven Cleaner removed the plating on the engine parts. I made an exception for the valve covers, because it was common place to installed chrome pieces.

P1040751 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040754 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here are the engine parts primed in gray Stynylrez primer.

P1040755 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here is the final assembly of the 427 cu in V8. All painting except the blue was done with Model Master Acrylics. The blue is Vallejo Model Color.
The instructions say to paint the block aluminum, but I am fairly certain, all 427 blocks were cast iron. The block in the car at the Sotheby's auction was painted yellow. I chose the factory Chevrolet red.

P1040756 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040757 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:39 pm

Oh.. great looking engine! Nice call on the valve cover especially for a vette 427.

Rallychef · Post by **Rallychef** » Thu Jan 04, 2018 9:19 pm

Great start, looking good, will be following with interest.

cheers Ian

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:36 am

Amazing how fast the Easy Off takes off Revell chrome...Tamiya takes a bit longer
That engine is screaming to be wired up...are you gonna do that???
Doing great so far

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:02 am

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:36 am Amazing how fast the Easy Off takes off Revell chrome...Tamiya takes a bit longer
That engine is screaming to be wired up...are you gonna do that???
Doing great so far

I've never wired an engine. I'll consider it.

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:25 am

SkyPainter303 wrote: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:02 am
Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:36 am Amazing how fast the Easy Off takes off Revell chrome...Tamiya takes a bit longer
That engine is screaming to be wired up...are you gonna do that???
Doing great so far
I've never wired an engine. I'll consider it.

If you need some help, just let me know....it is so easy to do

gaz45 · Post by **gaz45** » Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:16 pm

Great looking engine mate

pourquoi61 · Post by **pourquoi61** » Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:28 pm

Fantastic model and a bargain also.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:45 am

I've spend that past few workbench sessions working on the chassis.

Here I have some of the parts removed from the trees ready for primer.

P1040758 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

After a coat of gray Stynylrez.

P1040759 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

More chassis parts and wheel parts primed.

P1040761 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

The color call outs for the chassis parts were all black. To add some color I chose to paint the front coil springs red.

P1040763 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

The chassis is now mostly finished. Since this Corvette race car used Koni shocks, I had to paint them yellow.

P1040764 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040765 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040766 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040767 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:02 am

Historic Sportscar Racing L88 Corvette at Daytona

[youtube]cWg3ugjBqbQ[/youtube]

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:33 pm

SkyPainter303 wrote: Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:02 am Historic Sportscar Racing L88 Corvette at Daytona

[youtube]cWg3ugjBqbQ[/youtube]

That was cool...
But I used to do that going to work in the morning a few years ago!

The build is looking really cool so far Michael.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:38 am

I've finished the chassis assembly and installed the engine. I decided to skip wiring the plugs because the engine bay is quite tight. Also the headers don't go on until after the engine is dropped in. That makes spark plug locations a little vague.

P1040769 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I also put the wheels on. They snap into place very snugly; so tight, some suspension parts snapped off requiring me to re-glue them.

The chrome plating was stripped off the wheels. I then sprayed them with Model Master Acrylic silver. The wheel centers were hand painted with Vallejo Gun Metal.

Interestingly, the wheels have the Goodyear name and logo molded in yet this racer carries sponsorship from Firestone Tires. I suppose they wanted to save money using the tires from the standard Corvette kit.

P1040771 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040772 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:57 am

Up next is the interior. The standard Corvette dashboard had been replaced, but this replacement is still not quite right. I may do some hacking to make it correct. The standard center console remains. I am in the process of totally rebuilding it.

OC_5111 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040770 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I sanded and filled the console with putty. The handbrake is not present in the race car.

P1040775 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

To add the lights and switched, I drilled holes with a micro bit, and inserted some small styrene rods.

P1040776 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040777 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040778 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

These rods were cut with my sprue cutter and further trimmed with a diamond bit in my rotary tool and a needle file.

P1040780 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I still need to build the add-on panel to the right.

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Mon Jan 08, 2018 3:02 pm

Awesome chassis and switch building!!

gaz45 · Post by **gaz45** » Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:32 pm

Very nice work mate

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:02 am

I appreciate the encouragement guys. I could have used some tiny needle sanders to finish off those switch panels. I am not happy with the way they look after paint. That being said, the black makes them fade into the background anyway.

I primed the separate interior pieces with gray Stynylrez. All except the carpeted areas were painted in gloss black which came out a nice semi-gloss. The carpet was painted in flat black. Instrument bezels and switches were painted with a Molotow chrome pen, and green and red acrylic paint.

The roll bars are not very realistic. No sanctioning body would allow the bars to encroach upon the seating areas. Though the roll bars do add a sense of racecar if not totally believable.

P1040782 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040783 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040784 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

demarcation · Post by **demarcation** » Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:00 pm

That interior looks great. Awesome work!!

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:15 pm

Major setback: I attached the rear fender flares and decided to "glass them in" using Miliputt. That was an utter failure braking one of the flares and making a mess of them and the body. I may go to Hobby Lobby to get a replacement body using my 40% off coupon. I am not sure what to do about the fender flares.

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:30 pm

SkyPainter303 wrote: Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:15 pm Major setback: I attached the rear fender flares and decided to "glass them in" using Miliputt. That was an utter failure braking one of the flares and making a mess of them and the body. I may go to Hobby Lobby to get a replacement body using my 40% off coupon. I am not sure what to do about the fender flares.

Dang!! Hope you can get 1 soon. The rest looks awesome Skyp. Can you buy just a body at HobbyLobby? I did not know that. Should not be that expensive I would hope.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:34 pm

DrSprue wrote: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:30 pm Dang!! Hope you can get 1 soon. The rest looks awesome Skyp. Can you buy just a body at HobbyLobby? I did not know that. Should not be that expensive I would hope.

No, but kits are cheap. I am pretty sure they have a Yenko 2-in-1 Corvette kit. I am hoping it has flares in the box.

NorthernModeller · Post by **NorthernModeller** » Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:01 pm

Beautiful Corvette. Looking forward to seeing this come together

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:28 am

Well, I took a look at Revell's Yenko 2'n1 Corvette - no fender flares. I really don't want to buy another full price kit just for those. The Yenko does have the same wheel option, just not the wide rear wheels.

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:45 am

Bondo works well to make flares or help repair your broken ones

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:24 am

Cool, I was thinking something similar. I will try and clean up the styrene flares and glue the pieces back together.

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:57 am

SkyPainter303 wrote: Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:24 am Cool, I was thinking something similar. I will try and clean up the styrene flares and glue the pieces back together.

Good. Don’t give up
I used Bondo Glazing and Spot putty...it is in a 128g tube, no catalyst/ base needed and not expensive.
Just a bit stronger, and cheaper, than modelling putty

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:59 pm

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:57 am
SkyPainter303 wrote: Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:24 am Cool, I was thinking something similar. I will try and clean up the styrene flares and glue the pieces back together.
Good. Don’t give up
I used Bondo Glazing and Spot putty...it is in a 128g tube, no catalyst/ base needed and not expensive.
Just a bit stronger, and cheaper, than modelling putty

I cleaned up one of the fender flares. The other one that broke in two is only 3/5 there. The other piece has gone missing.

I'll post before and after pictures later.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:42 am

I found this 1971 Corvette body on eBay. It has four molded-in fender flares, but the incorrect vents.

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:05 pm

But oh... that vette does look cool tho! Man I love those early 70 machines. Even tho that vent is different it does look cool.

OlaHansson · Post by **OlaHansson** » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:12 pm

Looks nice!!
Just built a 82 and having a 68 on the way home

NorthernModeller · Post by **NorthernModeller** » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:13 pm

It is such a beautiful machine, I really am looking forward to seeing it come together

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Wed Jan 17, 2018 2:11 am

I am well on my way to recovering from my fender flare mess up. After doing some research on how to make your own fender flares, I can now move on with the build.

Before I get into the flare disaster, here is a photo showing my highlights of the mold seams that needed to be sanded off.

P1040785 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here is are the kit flares. In hindsight, I should have left well enough alone.

P1040787 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040789 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here is my first, haphazard attempt the blending in the fender flares with Miliputt.

P1040790 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I was not at all happy, so I ripped them off, in the process, braking one in two pieces.

P1040805 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

The internet said to attached strips of styrene to the wheel opening creating a form, to which putty or epoxy could be formed.

P1040807 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

After the basic form was created, I trimmed it with a cutting wheel in my rotary tool.

P1040808 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040809 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040810 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040811 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here is the completed fender flare shape, once again, made with Miliputt. This time, the design shape is more refined. After the Miliputt has cured, I will be able to further refine the fender flares with sanding film and sanding sticks. If deemed necessary, I can continue smoothing the contour with Tamiya putty.

P1040813 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040812 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Post by **Tomcat64** » Wed Jan 17, 2018 4:34 pm

Hats off to you - that's some really great work on the fender recovery - hoping you can get it smoothed out to your satisfaction.

pourquoi61 · Post by **pourquoi61** » Wed Jan 17, 2018 11:08 pm

I must say if that was my model it would have gone in the bin!
You are not going to give up on this build I can see, top bloke.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Sat Jan 20, 2018 5:22 am

I've binned it.

Things were going well until the automotive lacquer primer reacted with the Tamiya spray silver base coat and the Miliputt.

I used Bondo glazing and spot putty to smooth the final contour. Then I used Harbor Freight Tools Sandable Primer. I was happy at that point, but things went downhill from there.

P1040823 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040824 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040829 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040830 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040832 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

There was a clue when the 1200 grit wet sand took off more paint than I expected.

If I get in a better mood, I'll go to Hobby Lobby and use the 40% coupon to get a regular 1968 Corvette kit. The body should fit the same.

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:05 am

Oh I am so sorry to hear that
You have put some really good and hard work into this and it sucks to be repaid like that
Oven cleaner can take off the paint but there would be more work to get it up to snuff and it still is never as perfect as fresh styrene.
I wish you luck in whatever route you go.......maybe something else from the stash??

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Sat Jan 20, 2018 2:58 pm

I hope your mojo gets better bud, and yea!!! That 40% off on a 1968 Corvette kit would lift my spirits. Sounds like it would be a great purchase.

pourquoi61 · Post by **pourquoi61** » Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:34 pm

Tough call but you might come back to it some day, now pull out a nice Tamiya car and get that mojo back.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:34 am

pourquoi61 wrote: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:34 pm Tough call but you might come back to it some day, now pull out a nice Tamiya car and get that mojo back.

I took another look at the damaged Corvette body and I think I may be able to fix it.

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:24 pm

SkyPainter303 wrote: Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:34 am
pourquoi61 wrote: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:34 pm Tough call but you might come back to it some day, now pull out a nice Tamiya car and get that mojo back.
I took another look at the damaged Corvette body and I think I may be able to fix it.

pourquoi61 · Post by **pourquoi61** » Sun Jan 28, 2018 9:05 pm

SkyPainter303 wrote: Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:34 am
pourquoi61 wrote: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:34 pm Tough call but you might come back to it some day, now pull out a nice Tamiya car and get that mojo back.
I took another look at the damaged Corvette body and I think I may be able to fix it.

I do hope so as you have put a lot of time into this model.

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Jan 29, 2018 6:27 am

Back from the bin. I fixed up the damaged fender with Bondo spot and glazing putty. I then gave the body a fresh base coat of Tamiya spray silver. It isn't perfect, but I think I can make it presentable once the white, decals, and clear coat are applied. The silver has some orange peel, but I can work with it.

P1040864 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040865 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

P1040866 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:19 pm

Ohh sweet, now that is a Corvette!

SkyPainter303 · Post by **SkyPainter303** » Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:47 am

I will not let this kit beat me. I bought the Revell "Rebel Racer" 1968 Corvette kit so I could use its body. This time around, I used the rear fender flares as is, not blending with putty. Before I added the flares, I marked out the mold seams with a Sharpie. This way I could see when the seams have been fully removed.

P1040880 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

After the seams were sanded away, I used the scribe I bought at Lowe's to deepen the panel lines. I didn't want them to be filled in with paint.

P1040881 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I airbrushed on, two coats of Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer sanding between coats with 1000 grit sandpaper.

P1040882 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I then sanded the body once more with 1200 grit paper. Next, I sprayed on two coat of Tamiya spray can silver. I learned this method of painting white from the Scale Modeling Channel on YouTube.

P1040883 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Finally, I sprayed on two coats of Tamiya white. I think I finally have a satisfactory Corvette body. The paint is still a little transparent which is evident in the panel lines. I believe I can fix this by darkening the panel lines.

P1040884 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

DrSprue · Post by **DrSprue** » Mon Feb 05, 2018 2:38 pm

Oh superb painting on that body!

Post by **Twokidsnosleep** » Mon Feb 05, 2018 4:59 pm

Looking good, keep up the battle