Tools needed
Sharp scissors (Tamiya)
Tweezers (tamiya)
Range of thin masking tapes 0.4mm, 1 mm and 2mm (Aizu from Umpretail.com
)Normal Masking Tape 6mm and 10mm (Tamiya)
Cling film (Tesco
)Black paint (Ultimate Black primer)
ONE IMPORTANT THING, DETACK ALL TAPE ON THE BACK OF YOU HAND SEVERAL TIMES AND DO NOT APPLY TAPE ON TOP OF DECALS WITH NO CLEARCOAT OR IT WILL PULL THEM OFF.
Start of with the thinner tape (0.4mm) to conform around the edges of the curved parts of the window, use pieces if necessary to get the right shape. Once all the edges have been covered use the 1mm and 2mm tape to fill in any gaps between sections
Using the 6mm Tamiya follow the edges of all the thinner tape ensuring that all exposed joins are covered, giving you square edges for the next step.
Pull out a good 18" of clingfilm cut it cleanly and then fold in half.
Cut to sections of clinfim about 6-8 inches long, then Using the 10mm tamiya tape, apply it along one edge half on half off.
Stick this section to the 6mm tape from before again ensuring all exposed areas are covered and fold over the cling film underneath the body fully covering the side.
Do each side section first then do the same for the front and back section and the finally the roof. Cut clingfilm to size for the roof and tape in place. If anywhere if still exposed use tape to cover it.
It can also be worth masking the inside of the windows to stop any over spray through vents bumpers etc.
I prefer the use Ultimate black primer and sprayed at 25 psi in nice light thin coats ensuring all angles are covered. It usually takes me 3-4 light passes at different angles to get the correct coverage.
I like the remove the tape asap, but you have to be careful not to put fingers tape or clingfilm into you freshly applied paint. I have found that waiting for it to fully dry has caused som paint to be pulled off when unmasking.
If any areas have been missed by paint i will touch it up with the same paint and a brush
